Hello,
I wander where are the persistent cluster settings stored in order to survive a restart?
Nvm, found it
For the curious like me : $LIBDIR/nodes/0/_state
Yep, they are stored in cluster state.
I wouldn't be editing that on disk though.
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To clarify for future readers: in some released versions this is one of the files that contains some of the persistent settings in the OP's environment. In other released versions it is elsewhere. In other environments it is elsewhere. Other files may be required to reconstruct the full set of persistent settings. In versions that are released after I write this it might be elsewhere.
Your curiosity is more than welcome, of course, but the data directory contains no user-serviceable parts and your warranty is void if you remove the covers 
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